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by Linda Geist, University of Missouri Extension A century ago, poinsettia was added to Santa’s “naughty” list, but the plant’s reputation for being poisonous is unfortunate, says University of Missouri Extension horticulturist David Trinklein. Its pretty bracts and leaves pose no danger to people and pets, other than possible allergic reactions. The myth that poinsettia is toxic can be traced back to a 1919 incident in Hawaii involving the death of a 2-year-old child, presumably after eating poinsettia leaves. Later, it was revealed that the child died from other causes and poinsettia was not involved. However, the damage to poinsettia’s reputation was done and word of its toxicity spread quickly. “You cannot un-ring a bell,” Trinklein said. “Once a myth gains traction, dispelling it becomes quite a challenge.” Modern-day media unfortunately often continue to include poinsettia on lists of toxic holiday plants, he said. In a 1971 study funded by the Society of American Florists, scientists at Ohio State University fed lab rats “extraordinarily high doses of various portions of the poinsettia.” A human would have to devour several pounds of poinsettia to get an equivalent dose. Yet the rats appeared to be fine. Scientists observed “no mortality, no symptoms of toxicity nor any changes in dietary intake or general behavior pattern.” In the 1990s, researchers at Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh analyzed almost 23,000 cases of poinsettia ingestion reported by poison control centers. More than 92% of patients showed no ill effects at all, and no one died or became critically ill. However, Trinklein notes that poinsettia’s sap, which has several proteins in common with natural latex rubber, can cause allergic skin reactions. Therefore, the plants should be kept out of the reach of children. Of bracts and cyathia Poinsettia remains the nation’s top-selling potted flowering plant. The fact they are sold only in a narrow span of time between Thanksgiving and Christmas is testimony to Americans’ admiration for the plant, Trinklein said. The colorful part of the poinsettia that we enjoy isn’t a flower. What look like petals are specialized leaves called bracts. The true flowers, called cyathia (from the Greek for “cup”), are the small, yellow structures in the center of the bracts. When choosing a poinsettia plant, look closely at the cyathia. Their presence indicates the plant is still young. If the cyathia are missing, it’s likely the plant is past its prime. Also, check leaves and bracts for wilting, which could indicate root problems, Trinklein said. Examine the underside of the leaves for insect infestation or damage. Sun, little water Proper care helps the poinsettia stay vibrant throughout the holiday season. Two things are key: Place them in bright, indirect light and avoid overwatering. If your plants came wrapped in decorative foil, make sure there’s a hole in the foil so water can drain. Water if the pot feels light when you pick it up. If the soil’s surface is clammy or moist to the touch, wait to water. Fertilizer and plant food are unnecessary. Poinsettia plants can bloom another holiday season for those up to the challenge, said Trinklein. For information on how to save and rebloom a poinsettia plant, visit- https://extension.missouri.edu/news/poinsettias-can-bloom-again-next-year-with-tlc-2966  The poinsettia's small flowers are surrounded by colorful leaves called bracts. Photo by Scott Bauer, USDA Agricultural Research Service.  The holiday season is here, and homes everywhere are filling up with friends and family. But things like clogged drains, burned out light bulbs, leaking toilets, unwelcome guests like mice, and slick sidewalks are a fact of life – and it can happen at the worst times. Westlake Ace Hardware suggests these simple tips and products to keep on hand to make household repairs quick and simple – and let you get back to enjoying the holidays!
 by Kelly McGowan, MU Extension Field Specialist in Horticulturist in the Southwest Region Nothing is cozier than a wood burning fireplace on a cold winter night. Once that fire is gone, ashes make a great soil amendment and have been used by gardeners for generations. Ashes are a good source of plant nutrients, especially calcium. While the calcium is good for plant health, it can work similarly to lime and effect soil pH, the acidity, neutrality, or alkalinity, of the soil. Excessive use of wood ash can lead to a pH above the ideal level, which in turn can affect nutrient availability. It can also increase levels of phosphorus and potassium to high levels. Be careful to not over apply and soil test every one to two years to monitor soil fertility and pH. It is easy to get too much of a good thing! The recommended amount is five to ten pounds per 100 square feet. Ash can be applied pre-planting and incorporated in the soil, or used as a side dressing around growing plants. Store unused ashes in a dry place. If stored outdoors, the weathering process can decrease its nutritive value. Make sure to only use wood ash and never ashes from burning trash. Trash burning ashes contain toxins that are undesirable in the vegetable garden. Also, keep in mind that wood ash is highly alkaline, so wear a dust mask and other protective equipment when handling to prevent inhaling or getting into your eyes.  (StatePoint) It’s fall, which means it’s time to roll up your sleeves, make minor fixes and prepare your home before it’s time to hunker down for winter. Here are four easy DIY projects that will ensure your humble abode is in tip-top shape before the cold weather arrives. Patch It Up If you experienced storms this past season, survey your home’s exterior for any damage. Take a walk around the grounds and look at the siding and the condition of the roof, including the garage and porch. Use T-Rex Waterproof Tape to temporarily patch small holes in vinyl siding, loose shingles or leaks in your gutter. The tape is formulated to withstand extreme temperatures and can stretch up to 700% of its original length, so it can be used for any indoor or outdoor job that requires a waterproof seal. Making quick repairs will save you from expensive water damage costs down the road and help prevent any further issues arising during the cold weather season. Lawn Improvement As the leaves fall off the trees and onto the ground, an alternative to raking is to pull out the lawn mower. Trim the leaves into smaller pieces, which can then be used as natural mulch around the yard and garden. Layer the compost around perennial beds or other plants to provide insulation and protection through the winter. Mid-to-late fall, with the warm soil and cool air, is also an ideal time for planting grass seed, and fertilizing and filling in holes with the leaf compost. This will put you on a path to a greener lawn next spring. Prepare the Deck Before the first cold front approaches, make sure to clean up the patio or deck and store outdoor umbrellas, cushions and rugs in a safe spot in the garage or shed. If you notice any rot or wetness on the deck, it can be a simple fix by replacing the wood boards or using a wood filler to prevent further damage. Winterize large patio furniture and protect items that are staying outside with a weatherproof cover. To keep the covers in place, secure them to the bottom of the furniture. Squeaky Clean Exterior Once the patio is prepped, turn your attention to the rest of the exterior. Debris and stains collected on the outside of the house during summer can set over the winter, so it’s a good idea to power wash away the dirt. Start with the driveway, deck and windows and then take time to wash the siding and gutters, as long as you spray water in a direction that won’t force it behind the siding or under shingles. This project will help remove lingering grime, mold and mildew and ensure the outside area is clean and ready for winter. After checking off these projects on your fall list, your home will be properly prepped so you can relax, slow down and enjoy the season.  by Professor Michele Warmund, University of Missouri Extension Horticulturist Fall is prime time for harvesting juicy, crunchy fresh apples at their peak of perfection. If you want to add an apple tree to your property, make sure to peruse the nursery catalogs and place an order for apple trees to plant in your yard. Placing an order now will ensure the delivery of the more popular, disease-resistant cultivars for planting next spring. By February or March, most of the apple tree inventory will have been sold, leaving the less desirable stock available for purchase. Planting disease-resistant cultivars is a recommended control strategy used to limit fungicide use. Some apple cultivars have been bred for resistance to four main diseases: apple scab, cedar apple rust, fire blight and powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is typically the least serious disease of the four. Besides disease resistance, there are several other factors to consider when selecting any fruit tree for planting. Chose a cultivar that is available on a rootstock that produces trees that will fit the allotted space for at least two trees, since most cultivars require cross-pollination for adequate fruit set. Cultivars on dwarfing rootstocks, such as M.9, G.11, G.16 and G.41, will be smaller than those on a semi-dwarfing rootstock like M.7 or MM.111. Select an apple that doesn’t ripen in the summer months. Warm weather causes ripened fruit to be soft. Many of the recent introductions can be picked in September or later, when nighttime temperatures are generally cooler. This results in better fruit color and firmness. Lastly, choose a cultivar with your preference for sweetness, tartness, sugar/acid balance, flavor and texture. Here are some apple cultivars to consider: Liberty is the most widely planted scab-resistant apple cultivar in Missouri. This cultivar produces medium-sized fruit with a mildly tart flavor during September. Liberty is favored due to its resistance to apple scab, fire blight, cedar apple rust and powdery mildew. Crimson Crisp trees produce medium-sized, dark red apples with a firm, crisp texture and a mildly acidic flavor. Its fruit ripens a few days earlier than Liberty and can be stored for at least four months in refrigeration. This cultivar is resistant to apple scab and somewhat susceptible to cedar apple rust and powdery mildew. Crimson Gold is another scab-resistant cultivar that ripens at the same time as Crimson Crisp. However, Crimson Gold apples have a peel color of reddish-orange blush with a yellow background and fine-textured flesh with a sweet-acidic flavor. Ruby Rush is a selection of a GoldRush x Enterprise cross that has resistance to apple scab, fire blight and cedar apple rust. Trees grow vigorously but can be prone to biennial bearing if developing fruit are not properly thinned early in the growing season. Ripens in September to early October. Galarina trees grow vigorously with an upright-spreading growth habit. This cultivar also has resistance to apple scab and powdery mildew. Apples are small to medium-sized with orange-red peel and a sweet flavor resembling Gala. Querina is an introduction with Jonathan apple parentage. Trees are scab-resistant but susceptible to cedar apple rust. The dark red, medium-sized fruit have a sweet-tart flavor and ripen in October. Winecrisp trees are resistant to apple scab and fire blight but susceptible to cedar apple rust. The apple peel is dark red but can have a dull, rough surface. Fruit has a sweet-tart, spicy flavor that is enhanced by refrigeration. Enterprise is an older, reliable cultivar that ripens in late October. It is immune to scab, resistant to fire blight and cedar apple rust and moderately resistant to mildew. The fruit are medium to large in size with tart flesh, but the red peel tends to be thick. Goldrush is another older cultivar that is immune to apple scab and moderately resistant to powdery mildew and fire blight but susceptible to cedar apple rust. The fruit ripens late in the season after Enterprise. It has medium to large yellow fruit with a sweet-acidic flavor that tends to mellow when cold-stored. For more information, see the MU Extension guides “Apple Cultivars and Their Uses” at extension.missouri.edu/g6022 and “Home Fruit Production: Apples” at extension.missouri.edu/g6021. by Cathy Bylinowski, Horticulture Instructor, University of Missouri Extension September is a busy month for gardeners. If you have a vegetable garden, this month is often when you have a bountiful harvest of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. And by the end of the month, it’s time for the sweet potato harvest. Be sure to cut the green vines off the sweet potatoes 2-3 days before digging them up to help toughen the skins and prevent damage to the sweet potato. The less damage they have to the skin, the longer they will last in storage. Have you ever grown garlic? Garlic is used in salad dressings, marinades, sauces and as a flavoring agent for meats, veggies and soups! It also has several health benefits. Learn to grow your own garlic! Join the free class online, on September 20, 6-8pm. Topics include: • when to plant • nutrient, weed & pest management • harvesting and storage This virtual workshop provides research-based information for gardeners about garlic production cultural practices, right planting time in Missouri, and selection of good planting stock. This program also provides information about nutrient, weed and pest management. Participants will learn about harvesting, storage and marketing. Cost: Free Contact: Field Specialist in Horticulture Dhruba Dhakal, dhakald@missouri.edu , 573-581-3231 to join the class. Other September gardening tasks include the following: Ornamentals:
Lawns:
Veggies:
Portions of this article were reprinted from the MU Extension Lawn and Garden newsletter. Please feel free to contact Horticulture Instructor Cathy Bylinowski, bylinowskic@missouri.edu if you have more gardening questions.  by Cathy Bylinowski, M.S. Horticulture, Horticulture Instructor, University of Missouri Extension- Jackson County, MO August looks like it will be hot. Even with challenging weather conditions, there are many important gardening activities we can do this month. Outdoor Flowering Plants and Ornamentals
Edible/Vegetable Gardening
Fruits Production
Turfgrass
Have an abundance of zucchini this summer? Here’s a tasty way to use extra: Chocolate Chip Zucchini Muffins INGREDIENTS 2 cups whole wheat flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1/2 cup unsweetened applesauce 1/4 cup oil (canola, olive, or vegetable) 1/4 cup nonfat milk 1 banana, mashed 1/4 cup brown sugar 1 cup zucchini, washed and shredded (about 1/2 large unpeeled zucchini) 1/4 cup chocolate chips INSTRUCTIONS
by Cathy Bylinowski, MU Extension Horticulture Instructor Help your plants beat the heat with mulch. Maintain 2-4 inches of an organic mulch to keep the soil cool, University of Missouri Extension horticulturist David Trinklein advises. This promotes root growth and curbs soil moisture loss. By blocking sunlight, mulch also prevents weeds from germinating. Finally, organic mulches improve soil structure as they decompose and add nutrients to the soil. Remember, do not create mulch “volcanoes” especially around trees or shrubs. While mulch “volcano” around the trunk of trees can be seen around town, it is not a recommended practice and can jeopardize the health of your plants. Instead, create a mulch “donut” or “bagel” around the roots of the plant. Expand the mulch bed to the drip line or beyond if possible. Do not place mulch directly on the stem or trunks of trees and shrubs because this can encourage pests such as mice and voles to chew on the stem, cause plant diseases, and create soil health problems. Good mulch materials include dried grass clippings, shredded leaves, pine needles and ground softwood tree bark. Bags of cotton burr compost can also be used for mulch in vegetable or flower gardens. Gardeners may see problems with nitrogen deficiency when they plant into existing mulched areas. Mulch can fall into the planting holes, where soil microbes will break down organic matter in the mulch, consuming nitrogen in the process. Nitrogen deficiency often results in lighter green leaf color, weak or slow growth, and even yellowing and loss of lower leaves. To counter this, spread a fertilizer high in nitrogen in recommended amounts on the soil surface before applying mulch. For established mulch, add more nitrogen fertilizer during the growing season as mulch decomposes. For tomatoes, avoid high nitrogen fertilizers since they will encourage foliage at the expense of tomatoes. Tomatoes do benefit from mulching during the heat of summer. While sour mulch is not a common problem, hardwood mulches tend to break down more rapidly, which makes them more likely to become sour than softwood mulches. Good mulch should have the aroma of freshly cut wood or good garden soil. Sour mulches smell of ammonia, sulfur, or vinegar. “The benefits of mulching greatly outweigh the concern of plant damage from sour mulch,” Trinklein said. “However, be aware of the problem and check mulches before applying.” Once mulch is established, it may not be necessary to add new mulch every year. This especially is true in areas where it initially is applied more thickly, such as around trees and shrubs. However, adding a thin layer of new mulch often improves the appearance of the landscape. Mulches help to make gardening more sustainable, Trinklein said. “Their ability to conserve water, retard weed growth and eventually add nutrients to the soil make their use a logical way to reduce the inputs needed to grow an attractive garden.” For more information, see the MU Extension publication “Mulches” (G6960), available for free download at extension.missouri.edu/p/G6960. This publication has an extensive list of the pros and cons of different types of mulch. Missouri Department of Conservation also has a good guide sheet on mulch recommendations for trees- https://mdc.mo.gov/sites/default/files/2020-04/mulch.pdf Have more gardening questions? Please feel free to contact Cathy Bylinowski, MU Extension Horticulture Instructor, bylinowskic@missouri.edu, for more information. You may also call or email the Extension Master Gardeners Hotline for assistance with common gardening problems or questions - 816-833-TREE (8733) – 24-hour voicemail mggkc.hotline@gmail.com  Guest contributor, Sara Scheil is an Emeritus Extension Master Gardener and a Missouri Master Naturalist. She established and manages St. Paul’s Community Garden in Independence, MO, where participants can grow vegetables. The perimeter of the garden is surrounded by many Missouri native wildflowers which support beneficial insects including pollinators. Ever meet someone new and not think much about it? Then, someone tells you how amazing this person is and why? Suddenly, this person becomes interesting and respect is generated! This can be true of many beneficial insects, including pollinators. Let me tell you about some beneficial insects that you can invite and get to know right in your own garden, especially if you plant Missouri native flowers. The black and yellow, fuzzy bumblebee (Bombus spp.) is really quite docile and getting a close look at it is easy. Missouri has at least 6 species of native bumblebees. They visit an important native plant, the Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), in my garden and when the pink fragrant clusters of flowers burst open in June, the bee has to work hard to obtain the nectar, the sweet energy food, and pollen, a source of protein. The bee has to perform “buzz pollination” by pressing its thorax against the base of the anthers which hold the pollen and vibrating its flight muscles without flapping its wings. This releases the pollen for the bee. You can actually hear this happening; it sounds much like a middle C musical note. The pollen collects on the bee’s upper hind legs in a structure called corbicula or pollen basket. Next time you take a look at a bumblebee, look for this feature. These two food sources, pollen and nectar, are what bind the plant world and the insect world in a strong symbiotic relationship which had lasted for thousands of years. The bee receives the food it wants and the plant is aided in pollination, the act of transferring pollen to the flower’s pistil to generate seeds- the ongoing goal of all living things to perpetuate their species. Another beneficial insect that we humans normally scorn is the Paper Wasp (Polistes spp.) that usually annoys us by building its compartmental nests under the eaves of our homes. Because this insect feeds on caterpillars and beetle larvae, they are good biological control insects- who needs chemicals with insect control by the wasps? Paper Wasps love the Rattlesnake Master plant (Eryngium yuccifolium), native to Missouri. With characteristics like the yucca plant, this flowering plant offers interesting texture to a native plant garden. Each round, white flower head on a long stem has 106 five petaled flowers and blooms from July to September. Besides wasps, this plant attracts butterflies and beetles who value this plant for the nectar offering hydration and sugar. Bumblebees forage, in addition, for its nectar. For more information on native plants, beneficial insects, vegetable and ornamental gardening, feel free to contact Cathy Bylinowski, Horticulture Instructor, University of Missouri Extension, bylinowskic@missouri.edu. Resources: Missouri Extension; M401 brochure; Pollinators of Native Plants by Heather Holm; Attracting Native Pollinators; The Xerces Society Guide  Great Golden Digger Wasp Sphex ichneumoneus, a gentle and benign wasp, gathering nectar and pollen from a flowering oregano plant. Photo by Sara Scheil  Bumble bee Bombus spp. gathering pollen on thistle flower. Photo by Sara Scheil by Cathy Bylinowski, Horticulture Instructor, University of Missouri Extension- Jackson County Maintaining a yard and garden can take a lot of time, energy, and money. There are many rewards for all that effort; one is the wonderful fragrance of Common Lilacs. If you have been thinking of getting a lilac for your yard, May is a good time to plant one. There are many species and hybrids of lilacs. They all need:
Old Fashioned or Common Lilacs- Syringa vulgaris Common Lilacs bloom from mid to late April through mid- May. They grow to 15 feet tall. The fragrance is special- a mixture of sweetness and intense perfume. In my mind there is no other flower fragrance else like it. Smelling a cluster of lilac flowers is a yearly, spring treat! Pruning a portion of the old wood on Common Lilacs helps prevent borers, powdery mildew, and increases longevity. More Lilacs French hybrids Lilacs- These are dense, upright-growing shrubs. The flower color of these lilacs ranges from white to pink to lavender to blue and purple. Both single and double flowered forms are available. The flowers of most varieties are very fragrant. They grow up to 15 feet tall and 3-4 ft. wide Korean Lilac- Syringa pubescens subsp. patula, also known as Korean Lilac “Miss Kim”. They grow 4ft to 9ft. tall and 5 to 7ft. wide. Dwarf Korean Lilac- Syringa meyeri, grow up to 5-8ft tall, 5-7 ft wide. Both of Korean lilacs have a sweet scent. They will bloom 1-2 years after planting. Japanese Tree Lilac, Syringa reticulata, is a medium to small tree. They grow up to 25 feet tall. Japanese Tree Lilacs have a rounded form and spreading growth. Large clusters of fragrant white flowers appear about mid-June, or about 4 to 6 weeks later than Common Lilac. The odor is different than Common Lilac. It is sweet, similar to privet flowers. The bark is reddish brown and attractive in winter. It is considered one of the hardiest lilacs. Planting- Plant lilacs no deeper than they were planted in the pot you bought it in. Lilacs benefit from light mulching, especially as they are getting established. Remember no mulch volcanoes! Keep mulch off the trunk of the plant. Pruning- Proper pruning is necessary to keep the plants attractive and to promote heavy flower production. After the plant becomes established, about one-third of the old stems should be removed each year. Older lilac stems may be attacked by borers. Proper pruning helps to minimize this problem. Some Lilac Diseases and Pests Powdery mildew looks like whitish powder on the leaf. It is caused by a fungal infection. It is can be a problem on some lilacs. Be sure to prune lilacs to increase air circulation. While powdery mildew can be unsightly, it will rarely kill the plant. Fungicides can be used to prevent powdery mildew. Be sure to read the label before use. Lilac borers can be a problem. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is the recommended strategy for controlling this and other pests. IPM starts with simple pest control methods before using any chemical insecticides. For more information, review this link to the Missouri Botanical Garden- https://bit.ly/3vVFZzO Need more information on lilacs or other ornamental plants? Feel free to contact me or the Master Gardeners of Greater Kansas City Hotline- 816-833-TREE (8733) mggkc.hotline@gmail.com.  Lilac flower close-up. Used with permission of Pixabay. Photo by Adina Voicu.  |
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