Perhaps you are still picking vegetables and admiring attractive zinnias or Rose of Sharon bushes this September.  Soon it will be time to harvest sweet potatoes and the last tomatoes!
     September is also prime lawn care month. If you have areas where turf grass has died, now is the time to prepare the soil and reseed. This MU Extension Publication that will give you detailed information about how to do it- Cool Season Grasses: Establishment and Renovation- https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6700
     Here are some tips from the Missouri Environment and Garden online Newsletter:
 
Tall fescue and/or Kentucky bluegrass- Cool Season lawn grasses
     September is the most important time to get to work on your lawn and rebuild turfgrass density after a long, difficult summer.
     This is the most important time to fertilize cool-season lawns. Apply fertilizer at a rate of 1 lb. nitrogen (N)/1000 sq ft. Potassium (K) may also be a component of the fertilizer at a 1/3 to 1/2 rate of the nitrogen, particularly if the soil test indicates a deficiency. Do not apply phosphorous (P) unless a soil test indicates it is needed since some soils are already at high or potentially toxic levels and established turfgrass is good at getting to even lower concentrations.
     Mid-September is also a great time to seed or overseed a lawn. If a lawn is less than 50% desirable turfgrass then consider a complete renovation, but in most cases a good overseeding will help rebuild density. Aerate or verticut if possible, then fertilize, (aerate or verticut again if possible), seed and lightly rake in. If the soil is low in phosphorous, addition of this nutrient may be necessary when seeding.
     Overseeding rates for tall fescue and a tall fescue/KBG mixture is 4-6 lbs. of pure live seed/1000 sq ft and a complete renovation is 6-8 lbs. of pure live seed/1000 sq ft. After seeding, water frequently and lightly enough to keep the soil dark, but not so much that it glistens (2-3 times a day). 
     Last but most importantly, you must know the size of your lawn to accurately apply fertilizer or seed. Try the lawn fertilizer calculator here - http://agebb.missouri.edu/fertcalc/. If you don't know the lawn size, or want to check, this web application will direct you to Google maps so the size can be estimated with satellite imagery.
      After using the spreader, blow the seeds and fertilizer back off the curb, road, sidewalk, or driveway and back into your lawn. Don't pollute!
 
Zoysiagrass- Warm Season Grass
     Zoysia starts shutting down, and mowing will be less frequent.
If you did not fertilize during the summer, or fertilize enough, (~ 1 lb. N/1000 sq ft) be aware that low nitrogen can result in increased winterkill during tough winters. A light rate of a fertilizer (0.25-0.5 lb. N/1000 sq ft) with both nitrogen and potassium may aid in winterkill avoidance.
Fall vegetable gardening
     A fall crop of cool season greens and radishes is possible if you plant soon. Radish varieties, such as Cherry Belle, Easter Egg, and French Breakfast, are ready to pick in 25-35 days after planting. Many radish varieties do well in cool temperatures. Be sure to water seed beds and keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate. After germination, water at least once a week. Thin radish seedlings to about 1 inch apart to give them enough room to grow tasty roots.
     Arugula and leaf lettuces, such as Black-seeded Simpson, are tasty, nutritious cool season crops that can be started in September. Both take about 40 to 50 days to harvest.
     Consider setting up high and low tunnels to extend the growing season.
     Remove any diseased or insect-infested plant debris from the garden to prevent the pests and pathogens from over-wintering.   This will help to limit populations next year.
     Keep harvesting ripened tomatoes and "top off" plants to encourage additional ripening as the first frost approaches.
     Feel free to contact me if you have more fall gardening questions. Cathy Bylinowski, Horticulture Instructor, bylinowskic@missouri.edu.
 

     Eggplant is another one of those vegetables that I didn’t discover until well into adulthood. While it may not be a vegetable found in our family garden, it is a favorite of mine to choose at the local farmer’s market. While the bulbous purple variety is the most common, some eggplant varieties can also be long and slender with a purple, pink, white or black hue, as well as small white globe shapes that indeed resembles an egg.
    While we refer to eggplant as a vegetable, they are botanically a fruit since they grow from a flowering plant and contain seeds.
    Eggplants are a member of the Solanaceae family, along with tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers. This family, also known as nightshade, may get a bad reputation due to a natural chemical called solanine, which is considered by some to contribute to inflammation. While there is not a consistent body of evidence that supports this theory, those with inflammatory conditions such as arthritis should monitor their symptoms after eating vegetables in this family.
     Eggplant has a bit of an uncertain origin, but historical consensus indicates that eggplant originated in India and China, who are still the top producing countries.
     As trade routes opened, it was transported to Europe, Africa and eventually to the United States by Spaniards in the 1800’s. According to the USDA Agriculture Marketing Research Center, the top producing states of eggplant are Georgia, Florida, California, New Jersey, and New York.
     When selecting eggplant, choose a product that is free from blemish with a smooth glossy skin that is firm and heavy for its size. Eggplant is temperature sensitive and can be stored in the refrigerator for up to five to seven days. Once cut, the flesh will turn brown very quickly. Eggplant can also be frozen for later use, most commonly in slices, for grilling or frying.
     While some may have concerns about the potential inflammatory nature of eggplant, it is a good source of vitamins A and C, as well as folate, potassium, manganese, and dietary fiber, all at a very low calorie per serving.
     The deep purple color also makes it rich in anthocyanins, a phytonutrient showing promise in prevention of heart disease. Because eggplant can be bitter, especially if over-mature, a key first step in preparation is salting to draw out the bitterness. After cubing or slicing, sprinkle pieces with salt and set on paper towels for at least 30 minutes. After the standing time, rinse with water and pat dry with paper towels before moving to the next step of preparation.
     I have learned to enjoy many preparations of eggplant, such as eggplant parmesan, rollatini and grilled slices with olive oil and herbs. One of my favorites, however, allows me to enjoy eggplant with squash, peppers and tomatoes that are bursting from my garden. If you’ve never tried eggplant, ratatouille is a great way to combine it with vegetables that you might be more familiar with. Enjoy!
 
     Denise Sullivan is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in the Urban West Region, serving Jackson and Platte Counties. For research-based nutrition and food safety information and programs, visit https://extension.missouri.edu/counties/urban-west-region
 

​     University of Missouri Extension is the part of the University of Missouri System that brings information and programming from University Specialists and research, to the public. Areas of interest you will find include Agriculture and Environment, Business and Community, Health and Safety, and Youth and Family. There are many ways you can access this practical and reliable information on a wide range of topics.
     The main MU website is a good place to get started.  Click on “Find your interest” to begin your exploration-  https://extension.missouri.edu/
     There is a great deal of information on gardening, landscaping, plants, plant diseases, and garden insects from MU Extension. Try searching your topic in the search bar in the upper right-hand corner. Here are links to some examples of helpful MU Extension Horticulture Publications:
https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6700  Cool-season grasses: Lawn Establishment and renovation
https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6201  Vegetable Planting Calendar
https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6800   Selecting Landscape Plants: Shade Trees
     Have you heard about MU Extension Town Halls? These are free, online, hour-long sessions with MU Extension Field Specialists. Horticulture Town Halls cover gardening and small producer questions on Wednesday mornings. Do you or someone you know raise livestock and maintain pastures?
     Try joining the Thursday Forage/Livestock Town Hall to take part in the discussion. Here’s a link to free registration for either town hall- https://ipm.missouri.edu/townHalls/
Want more free and reliable horticulture information? Master Gardeners of Greater Kansas City staff the Gardeners’ Hotline.     You can call the hotline or send an email: 816-833-TREE (8733) ormggkc.hotline@gmail.com
    When emailing, please include your county, phone number and any pictures that would help the Extension Master Gardeners assist you with your gardening questions and concerns.
     At the time of writing this article, it is late July and the temperature is 98 degrees! Here are some timely tips to help your yard and garden survive heat and drought:
     Water trees and shrubs- Trees and shrubs play an important part in your landscape. They are also expensive additions to your yard. During prolonged droughts they need supplemental water to survive. Soaking them is a good way to get water to the roots. Here is a link to more information on watering trees and shrubs- https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6879
     Water vegetable gardens and flower gardens. Most plants need 1-3 inches of water per week. Water around the roots of the plants. Watering the leaves does not help the plant survive droughts and hot weather. Water container gardens often. Be sure that container gardens have adequate drainage holes.
     Mulch- while sheets of plastic mulch can help control weeds and keep moisture in the soil, they do not add organic matter to the soil. Mulch, such as straw, composted leaves or cotton burr compost, helps control weeds, keeps the soil cooler and moist, and, as it decomposes, adds organic matter to the soil. Organic matter helps hold moisture in the soil and helps to improve soil texture. Here is a link to more information on mulches-  https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6960
     Contact Cathy Bylinowski, Horticulture Instructor, University of Missouri Extension, bylinowskic@missouri.edu. 816-252-5051, if you have any questions about gardening or Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Program.
 

    A favorite fruit from my childhood that my mother grew in her garden that I’ve never had much luck with is cantaloupe. I don’t know if it was the variety she grew or if there was something magical about the soil, but my mom could grow the biggest, sweetest cantaloupe that I had ever seen. Or was is muskmelon, as my grandmother called it?
     As a young child, this confused me! As it turns out, both my mom and grandmother were right, but my grandmother was more right!
    All cantaloupes are muskmelons, but not all muskmelons are cantaloupes. A true cantaloupe has a warty looking rind and will not slip easily from the vine when ripe. These are widely grown in Europe.
     A muskmelon, like my mother grew, has a pronounced netting on the rind, is fragrant, and slips easily from the vine when mature. Despite these differences, the U.S. Department of Agriculture only uses the term “cantaloupe” to describe both true cantaloupe and muskmelon, thus the terms are often used interchangeably in U.S. markets. They are a member of the Cucurbitaceae family, along with other viny plants like gourds, squash, and pumpkins.
     Cantaloupes were first cultivated in the Near East and were growing in areas from Turkey to China, including north-west India, Afghanistan, and Uzbekistan. Cantaloupes were cultivated by American Indians near the present city of Montreal in the 1500’s and the vicinity of Philadelphia in the 1700’s. Commercial cantaloupe production did not begin in the United States until the 1870’s and was initially centered in Maryland, Delaware, and New Jersey. Worldwide, the United States is the 8th largest producer of cantaloupes/other melons.
     Around 1.5 billion pounds of cantaloupe are grown annually from California, Arizona, Indiana, North Carolina, and Texas, with California and Arizona producing over 80% of the total.
     When shopping for a fresh cantaloupe, look for one that is somewhat symmetrical and feels heavy for its size with a stem end that feels slightly soft. The color should be a creamy, light yellow orange with little to no green. Ripe cantaloupe should smell sweet-especially at the stem end- and a little musky.
     Because of the high water content, cantaloupe, like most melons, is low in calories. Cantaloupe is an excellent source of beta carotene and Vitamin C, both powerful antioxidants that show promise in cancer prevention and supporting the immune system. It is also rich in potassium, folate, and fiber. 
     Cantaloupe and all melons should be washed well before cutting, as the knife can easily transfer bacteria from the outside to the inside flesh. Cut melon should also be refrigerated after cutting, as it can create a prime environment for bacteria to grow.
     Cantaloupe is a common ingredient it a fruit salad or it can be served with cheese and meats for a light summer dinner. Cantaloupe can also be pureed for a cold soup or even mixed with juice or sparkling water for a refreshing beverage. For a fun, kid-friendly summer treat, this fruit kebob recipe is best when served chilled.
     Denise Sullivan is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in the Urban West Region, serving Jackson and Platte Counties. For research-based nutrition and food safety information and programs, visit https://extension.missouri.edu/counties/urban-west-region
 

     May rains helped make June a great month to add new plants to your landscape and more variety to your vegetable and herb gardens. The possibilities are limitless. Here are a few suggestions:
    Peonies: Long-lived Perennials- Peonies are putting on a beautiful show in our region now. They are a traditional flower of Memorial Day.
In the 1800s, when the holiday was called Decoration Day, peonies were one of the few flowers in bloom in late May and were widely used to adorn the graves of fallen soldiers, said David Trinklein, University of Missouri Extension horticulturist.
     Today, they line the sidewalks and backyards of older homes and often serve as reminders of where farmsteads once stood. Peonies stand the test of time—lasting years, decades or even a century when undisturbed.
     Peonies thrive with relatively little care, and their self-sufficient nature makes them one of America’s most treasured garden flowers for weddings, fresh bouquets and grave decorations.  
     They come in a range of colors including white, pink, and deep red. They are deer-resistant and, for the most part, pest-resistant.
    The nectar inside peony buds can attract ants, which are not harmful to the plants. After peonies bloom, the ants move on to find a new food source.
Unlike most perennials, peonies rarely need to be divided, and they can be challenging to transplant, said Trinklein.
     Peonies do best when planted in sunny parts of your yard and in loamy soils. Space 3-4 feet apart in an area that receives at least six hours of sun per day.
    Avoid these mistakes with peonies:
• Avoid planting in areas that get a lot of wind because peonies can become top-heavy when budded or flowering; stems can droop on the ground.
• Avoid moving plants unless absolutely necessary. If you must move, do so in the fall after they have gone dormant.
• Do not use an insecticide to kill ants on peonies.
• Fertilize sparingly. Too much fertilizer, especially nitrogen, results in fewer flowers.
    Cut peonies do not last long, but when buds are immature (immature flower buds have the consistency of a marshmallow when gently squeezed), they can be cut and stored for later use. 
Cut at an angle, put stems in water and cover with cellophane. Store in the refrigerator and bring out later and allow to bloom.
     Sweet Potatoes: A Nutritious and Versatile Vegetable Crop- Sweet potatoes are definitely a warm season crop. They can be planted until mid-June and harvested in the fall. They need well-drained soil and full sun. Rooted stems, called slips, are sold at garden centers and nurseries now. Plant so that all the roots are covered by soil. Keep the sweet potato bed or row weeded until the plants get established.
     Once they start growing and vining, the abundant leaves shade out most weeds and help keep the soil moist. Harvest in September to early October before a frost or freeze occurs. 
     Sweet potato leaves are edible, too. They can be prepared with a range of cooking methods similar to spinach. Here is an interesting article from University of California- Davis on using sweet potato leaves, which includes a simple recipe and instructions- https://horticulture.ucdavis.edu/blog/cooking-sweet-potato-leaves-for-nutrition
     Basil: A Fragrant and Edible Addition to your Garden. Basil loves warm temperatures. It also prefers a sunny location. Add basil to your yard by planting it in containers, in an herb garden, or mixed in with your vegetable or flower garden. 
     Basil comes in a wide range of flavors, from the traditional Sweet Basil to the licorice-flavored Thai Basil. Here is a link to a University of Minnesota Extension article on adding basil to your gardening repertoire- https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-basil#choosing-basil-varieties-932110
 
For more gardening information, contact Cathy Bylinowski, MU Extension Horticulture Instructor, bylinowskic@missouri.edu, 816-252-5051.
 

     May is a great time to start a vegetable or ornamental garden, to plant shrubs and trees, and to take care of the lawn. Here are some tips to help you get started on a wide range of gardening activities:
 
Outdoor ornamentals:
     Pinch back mums to promote compact, bushy growth.
    Lightly side-dress perennials, including spring bulbs, with a 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 fertilizer, being careful to avoid the center or crown of the plant.
    Some common ground covers suitable for sunny locations include Ajuga, creeping phlox, and creeping juniper.
     Do not remove spring bulb foliage prematurely or next year's flower production will decline. Foliage should be left to feed the bulb via photosynthesis. Bulbs can be moved or divided as foliage dies. Bulbs can also be marked for fall transplanting and division.
     Prune blooming shrubs right after flowers have faded if needed.
Check for newly hatched bagworms on evergreens and conifers. For more information, see MU Extension Guide g7250 The Bagworm in Missouri https://extension.missouri.edu/g7250.
 
Vegetable Gardening:
     Plant tomatoes in warm soils.   
Mulch around plants and use support stakes or cages at planting time.
     Control caterpillars on broccoli and cabbage plants by handpicking or use biological sprays such as B.T. (bacillus thuringiensis) or Spinosad.
     Watch for striped and spotted cucumber beetles now. Both may spread wilt and mosaic diseases to squash and cucumber plants.
     Remove rhubarb seed stalks as they appear.
     Plant peppers and eggplants after soils have warmed.
     Plant sweet potato slips now.
     Begin planting sweet corn at two-week intervals. For good pollination, plant in block formation with a minimum of 4 rows. Isolate sweet, supersweet and popcorn varieties to prevent cross pollination by separating varieties by 250 feet apart or a difference of 14 days.
     Plant multiple plantings of cilantro or keep bloom heads cut off. It tends to go to seed quickly.
Herbs planted in average soils need no extra fertilizer. Too much may reduce flavor and quality at harvest.
     Scout for insect and disease problems in the garden. If you use a pesticide, please follow the directions on the label.
 
Fruit Trees and Berries:
     Follow fruit tree spray guide by the University of Missouri Extension. For more information, see MU Extension Guide g6010 Fruit Spray Schedule https://extension.missouri.edu/g6010.
     Don't spray insecticides while fruit trees are in bloom. Protect pollinators. Fungicides, however, can still be sprayed.
     Keep on top of weeds in the strawberry patch. They can quickly get out of hand. Weeds are detrimental to strawberry plants.
     Begin training new shoots on fruit trees. Prune unwanted shoots as they appear.
     Mulch blueberries with pine needles or aged sawdust.
     Continue thinning peaches and apples to promote large fruit size and prevent limb breakage.
 
 
 
Lawns:
 
Tall Fescue and Kentucky Bluegrass
    Mow lawns at 3.5–4 inches, frequently (once a week) if lawn is quickly growing. Do not mow too short!
     Restrict nitrogen applications to 0.5 lb. Nitrogen per month or less, particularly quickly available soluble forms.
     Apply postemergence broadleaf herbicides for summer weeds. If needed, start postemergence control of crabgrass, goosegrass or nutsedge near the end of the month.
     Watch for first brood of sod webworm which is rare. Apply curative insecticides only if needed.
 
Zoysiagrass
    Wait for lawn to completely green up prior to mowing at a height of 1.5–2 inches.
     Later in the month, monitor for large patch disease which is prevalent in wet springs.
 
 
Mulching and Weed Control:
     Four to five layers of newspaper will serve as an effective mulch in the garden. Water the newspaper as it is applied and cover it with sawdust or straw to weigh it down, to reduce the white glare and prevent it from blowing away.
     If weeds get out of control this summer, consider smothering them out with black plastic or heavy cardboard weighted down to keep the wind from blowing it away.
     Have fun gardening this month! Enjoy the cool and sunny weather. Get ready for summer!
     Visit the main MU Extension website to find more horticulture information- https://extension.missouri.edu/
     To subscribe to the free online monthly newsletter Missouri Environment and Gardens and other MU Extension garden related publications, visit this website- https://ipm.missouri.edu/subscribe/
 
 
 

​     Outside of lettuce or other types of leafy greens, peas are one of the early season garden goodies I look forward to every year. While some people might find the shelling of peas a tedious task, I prefer it to snapping beans and find it rather satisfying to ‘zip’ open the pod to get to the treasure inside.
     For most purposes, peas may be classified as garden or English peas, snow peas, and sugar snap peas. English peas are further divided into smooth or wrinkled seed varieties. Smooth-seeded varieties are starchier, while wrinkled varieties are sweeter and are commonly used for home and commercial growing. 
     Snow peas are meant to be harvested as flat, tender pods before the peas inside develop at all. Sugar snap peas have been developed from garden peas to have low-fiber pods that can be snapped and eaten along with the slightly mature peas inside. The starchier smooth-seeded varieties are used to produce ripe seed kernels that are fractured to be used to make split-pea soup. The Southern pea, or cowpea is an entirely different vegetable that is planted and grown in the same manner as beans and legumes.
     In the mid 1900’s, studies by Gregor Mendel working with seven characteristics of pea plants (plant height, pod shape and color, seed shape and color, and flower position and color) laid the foundation for modern genetics by identifying dominant and recessive traits in organisms.
     Peas are the seed of the Pisum sativum plant, which originated in the Mediterranean region of Greece, Syria & Turkey. They are a frost-hardy, cool-season vegetable grown wherever a cool season of sufficient duration exists. Today, most production occurring outside of the United States is in colder regions like Canada, Russia, England, and France. The highest producing states in the US are Washington, Montana, and North Dakota.
     No matter how you roll them, peas are nutrient-dense packages of carbohydrates, protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals (especially iron, potassium, folate and vitamins A and K). A half-cup of cooked green peas contains 4 grams of protein, 4 grams of fiber, 12 grams of carbohydrate, and 641 IU of vitamin A.
     On the flip side, peas also contain phytic acid and lectins, which are often referred to as anti-nutrients, that may interfere with nutrient absorption and promote bloating in some people. To minimize these effects keep serving sizes to around 1/3 to ½ cup, eat them fully cooked instead of raw, and try sprouted or fermented preparations.
     Peas can be enjoyed alone as a side dish, or added into soups, stews, or salads. Green peas can even be baked (tossed with a little olive oil and spices) on a baking sheet for a healthy, crunchy snack. Combining fresh peas with grape tomatoes, the pasta dish below can be served warm as a hearty main dish or chilled as a salad by thinning the cheese mixture with lemon juice.
    Denise Sullivan is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in the Urban West Region, serving Jackson and Platte Counties. For research-based nutrition and food safety information and programs, visit https://extension.missouri.edu/counties/urban-west-region
 

​     I’m always looking at other people’s yards and admiring their gardens, trees, and flowering shrubs. If I see an attractive plant that is new to me, I try to figure out what it is, if it will grow in my yard, and where I can get one.
This spring, take some time to enjoy the flowering trees and shrubs in your neighborhood, nearby parks, even in the woods and green spaces around you.
     If you see some you like, now is a great time to figure out what they are and if they will grow in your yard. Spring is also a good time to plant new flowering trees and shrubs to enjoy for years to come. Here are several spring-flowering trees and shrubs that grow well in western Missouri:

     I decided to take a step away from my comfort zone with this month’s installment of Plants on Your Plate and reached out to some of my southern-rooted friends for some insights. Growing up on a dairy farm in south-central Kansas, green beans, corn, and carrots were the most common vegetables at our table.
     The only kind of ‘greens’ I encountered happened at school lunch in the form of canned spinach, which I usually tried to sneak into my empty milk carton. Grown-up me still isn’t a fan of canned spinach, but I do love a good spinach salad. I have also discovered that my family likes kale and swiss chard, so I decided it was time to try something new…and chose collard greens!
    In the south, the term ‘greens’ refers to vegetables whose leaves are eaten when cooked until tender and can include mustard, turnip, beet, and collards. Collards are a member of the brassica family and a ‘cousin’ to cabbage and is sometimes referred to as tree-cabbage or headless cabbage.  
     Most historians agree that collards originated in Greek and Roman gardens around 2000 years ago, though some will go as far back as 5000 years. British settlers brought seeds to the colonies in the 17th century. Today, South Carolina is the top producer of collard greens in the United States and in 2011, declared them the state vegetable.
      Collards, like most leafy greens, are full of powerful nutrients including vitamins A, C, K, and folate, as well as the minerals iron, calcium, magnesium, and of course dietary fiber.
     These key nutrients show promise in the risk reduction and prevention of heart disease and certain cancers, as well as beneficial to eye health, digestive health, healing damaged tissues and preventing neural tube defects in developing fetus’.
     Collards can be grown year-round, but the best quality crops appear in the cooler temperatures in early spring and late fall. When selecting collard greens, look for deep green leaves that are sturdy and free of any wilt or yellow areas, indicating lack of freshness. 
Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to a week for optimal freshness.
     Prior to cooking, fresh greens should be soaked and swished several times in cold water to remove sandy grit. Collards can be cooked in a variety of ways, and usually starts with trimming out the tough center vein. Leaves can be blanched and stuffed, like stuffed cabbage rolls, or finely chopped and added raw to salads.
     For a truly southern flavor, greens are cooked ‘low and slow’ for several hours with a smoky meat like ham or bacon. The recipe that follows has a shorted cooking time and uses a leaner meat choice, but still produces a delicious flavor. I hope you will step outside of your comfort zone and give it a try!
     Denise Sullivan is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in the Urban West Region, programming in Jackson and Platte Counties. For research-based nutrition and food safety information and programs, visit https://extension.missouri.edu/counties/jackson
 

     It might be hard to believe now, but the icy, freezing winter weather will be over in the weeks to come. It will be time to start thinking about spring vegetable gardening! Begin the garden season with some planning.
     You can use the MU Extension Vegetable Planting Calendar to help guide you to success-
https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6201
     This publication will help you know what to plant when and other helpful gardening planning information.
If you want to start your own cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, or Brussels sprouts transplants, now is the time to begin. These cold tolerant cole-crops (cabbage-related crops) take about 5-8 days to germinate when in a warm (75-77 degrees) conditions.
     As soon as they germinate, move the seedlings to a well- lit location. You will need a sunny south window, fluorescent lights set up on shelving units to create a bright propagation area, or a greenhouse.
     Seedlings that do not get enough light, get too tall and often fall over. They will not mature into plants that produce good crops.
     If you do not have adequate light to start your own transplants, you can wait and purchase cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower transplants at garden center stores soon. In Central Missouri, transplants for cole-crops can be planted outside in a sunny spot in the vegetable garden, from mid-March through mid to late April.
     If temperatures well below freezing are predicted, you can cover them with newspaper, sheets of plastic, even bed sheets overnight for protection. Or you can cover the plants with floating row cover that can be kept on to help keep insect pests out.
    Floating row cover is a spun polyester fabric that lets light and rain in and creates a microclimate underneath next to the soil that is several degrees warmer than the outside temperatures.
     When the snow and ice melts, and garden soil is moist and crumbly, you can direct-sow cold tolerant crops such as arugula, lettuce, radishes, and sugar snap peas outside.
     Onions are a good spring crop, too. They will be available at garden centers in early spring, as onion sets, which are small onion bulbs, or as onion plants.
 
     Early spring is also a great time to plant ornamental cabbage and kale, pansies, and violas. These visually attractive plants love the cool weather and can be planted along flower bed borders, among the vegetables, and in containers. They will provide a wide range of color until the temperatures get hot in late June and July.
     Do you have more gardening questions? Field Specialists in Horticulture will hold the next free Horticulture Town Hall on March 10, 2021. Here is the link to register- https://ipm.missouri.edu/townHalls/
Choose the horticulture option to join in an informative discussion on many gardening topics.
     The Gardener Hotline is another way to get reliable gardening information. It is staffed by trained Extension Master Gardener Volunteers of Greater Kansas City. The phone number is 816-833-TREE (8733).  You can also email gardening, landscaping, and other horticulture questions to them at mggkc.hotline@gmail.com.
     Feel free to contact Cathy Bylinowski, MU Extension Horticulture Instructor, bylinowskic@missouri.edu, if you have more gardening questions or need more information on MU Extension Horticulture programs.